A lot of us have snowboarded or skied. Just imagine going as fast as you go down a mountain and then imagine hitting some ice, maybe some moguls. And then imagine an avalanche coming down after you. Then imagine not trying to run away from it, trying to stay as close as possible to it the whole time. And– and have it ch– chasing you and now the mountain’s moving and– and not just the avalanche, but the whole mountain is moving. That’s what it’s like riding these giant waves.
I’ll be in Lisbon, Portugal teaching a beginner photography workshop in March and I’m really hoping to get out to Nazaré to see these incredible waves. The men who surf them are utterly insane.