Disappearing burgers: Why so many chefs make it so hard to order their most popular dish


Pity the New Yorker who wants to eat an excellent burger for dinner while sitting at a proper table. The city is awash in outstanding burgers, but the simple task of ordering one at prime time feels like it’s become increasingly difficult.

The problem: More top New York chefs limit their burgers by selling them in very small quantities, or only at lunch, or only for the first 30 minutes their restaurant is open, or maybe just to the people sitting at the bar but not in the dining room, or possibly only on Mondays.

What a weird story and, I’m sorry, but “At Porter House, you can get the burger for $19 at lunch, or $26 at night at the bar” means I would never pay that much for a burger, no matter how good New Yorkers said it was.

  • richardmac

    If you want to live in a big city, you need to endure all kinds of foolishness. Which is one of the reasons I don’t live in a big city.

  • ggruber66

    I just want to say that before you make declarative statements, try the DB Bistro burger at DB Bistro Moderne in NYC. It’s Daniel Boloud’s restaurant. The burger is angus beef, filled with braised short rib, foie gras and black truffle on a parmesan bun. Served with pomme fritte. It will be the best $29 you spend.

    BTW, I have remade this as a meatloaf at home and it is equally fantastic. As with all things it is cheaper to make it at home, as long as you are willing to make the investment of 6 hours to braise the short ribs to create the one ingredient.